Dont let scammers to rip you off.

Hi, i have experienced lots of scammers on ebay and internet at all. Thought it would be good to tell you one way you can make them dissapointed in the way they cant steal your money. First: i have noticed lots of mainly nigerian scammers will purchase your item and then send you fake paypal email saying that your item was paid for and you can send it with no worries. What you do is simply log into your paypal account and you will see if there is any payment or not. If there is not, just send them what ever you want "i mean very not nice email or so".Other option is when there is money but they came from email address which is not verified or is situated somewhere in Indonesia or Thailand or so. In this case i would wait around one whole week before sending the money, because it can happen that card was stolen and your money will be taken away from you. This is usually case of notebooks, mobile phones and expensive electronics generaly.Now something for buyers.If you use your card for paying through paypal, make on simple thing, go to your bank, ask them to open new current account where you cant go to the debit and simply top up this account with money only when you purchase something. It can stay out of money in the meantime. But in case someone will get your bank details, there will be anyway nothing to take from you and thats what you want. Make scammers unhappy if they cant earn money other way than steal them from you.Hope this will help, if you like this guide, please vote for me. Thanks.

Hasselblad Mag / Back - Dating, Condition

Having seen backs mis advertised on ebay I thought a little knowledge might be a good thing so have endeavoured to clarify to some extent the history, dating and what to look for regarding faults and evidence of use.

I have for the purposes of this only included roll film backs leaving out Polaroid, Digital, and bulk film such as the 70 on back as they are a whole different chapter.

The magazine or for the purposes of this guide will now be referred to as back was first introduced in its current fitting in 1949 to fit the 1000F and the 1600F and has had during its life several modifications the most major being in 1968 which I will describe later, and you must therefore consider that it could be nearly 60 years old.

To date use VHPICTURES substitute 1234567890 - transcibe RS being 1980

First came the 12 on in 1949 which ran to 1954 and then the C12 which ran from 1955 to 1968 , both of which were simular in design and were loaded by looking through a hole in the back - winding until "1" became visible and the reversing the counter to locate frame 1 for the purposes of use.

How can I tell them apart well that is simple - on the bottom of the right hand side looking from the back are two small windows the one on the left being the frame number and the one on the right being the exposed indicator (red exposed - white not so) . On the 12 on the film number window is to the left of centre of the wind on , whereas on the C12 in is within 1/4 inch of the exposed window to the right of the centre of the wind on , which incidentally is still where it is located on the latest design.

This back only came in 12 and 16 on derivatives but at one time could be used with 220 by resetting the counter after shooting frame 12 and using a rubber plug in the hole at the back, however, don't fall for the bit that tells you that it is possible now as its not as the plug has not been made for years and if you find one its going to be either hard or perished and 220 film has no backing paper so it will fog unless you tape up the rear cover with duct tape.

The A12 was introduced in 1968 the A meaning Automatic setting to frame 1 and untill today utilizes the same loading method - yes there was the E type introduced with electrobus connectivity in 1994 but unless you are using the F series 201F etc.. you would not need them but remember the E type will work on a 500 series but non E type will not electronically couple to the F cameras.

Faults

The most common fault is the light seals - not an expensive repair but in 99% of cases caused by damaged dark slides (sheaths) so if you see a magazine advertised with a damaged sheath its odds on the light seal has gone or if no dark slide the chances are it was thrown away for that reason and the same would most probably apply.

Next problem is that the film wind on gets a little on the stiff side this is ina lot of cases down to a small nylon ring which acts as a bearing on the wind on and is inexpensive to repair but can also be down to a need of a service / lubrication.

Third problem is that they have a tendency to fail to stop at frame 1 when winding in the film or mis space where in some cases you end up with irregular gaps and only shoot as little as 9 frames although 12 register and the last 3 are fired on the backing paper - not so great if its the cake shot at a Wedding. My suggestion is if you have any old out of date films or see them for sale load one in and mark frame 1 and then advance , shoot, remove back and slide and mark each frame in turn to confirm spacing, yes it may be a pain in the rear but can save problems later.

Evidence of Use

First place to look is on the mounting surface where the serial is stamped as it wears first and is a good guide as to how many times it has been on and off of how it has been stored in a kit bag and remembering that while you are checking the serial number the last three numbers are also repeated on the insert - When new thay are paired at the factory and wear together so if mismatched at a later date can cause problems with spacing , my advice would be to avoid mismatched backs and if the numbers are not on the insert ask why ?. I have over the years seen chrome backs with black inserts and vice versa which I personally would not entertain using, not forgeting the usual dings, dents and shrinking or missing leatherette.

On the rear of the early backs 12 on and C12 the film reminder and rear cover are one and should spring shut to the rear of the back if its sloppy or missing draw your own conclusion , likewise check for damage to the plastic film reminder dial on the A12 and remember if its missing its not too inconvenient or expensive to repair but there should be a spring steel plate for it to mount to, if this is not there it was attached by two small rivets which if not there is going to be a light leak, especially bad on 220 as film with no backing paper will be directly under that point.

On the A12 the wind on knob was prone to loosing its outer part with medium to heavy use (the small part you hold whilst winding on) and in some cases may even be missing - consider if this is the case - why ?.

The wind on assembly wascrimped into the outer case side cover and it is possible to become detatched without major force and I have seen them advertised on ebay with a comment only needs a new side plate, yes it is only a plate secured by three screws under the leatherette but as a spare costs over 60.00 to buy at Hasselblad ex works prices.

From around the mid 90's the release button on the back lost its -V- marking which stood for Victor Hasselblad and gained a number representing the exposures on the film , and the latest gained a handy dark slide holder but as a word of caution if this is in any way damaged it is secured to the magazine by 4 small screws directly through and if they are loose you have a potential light leak.

Derivatives A12 (12 on 6x6) A16 (16on 6x4.5) A16S (12 on 4.5x4.5) A24 (24 on 6x6) and A32 (32 on 6x4.5) , beware the 16S which was superslide to allow you to project transparencies in a normal 2x2 projector and remember the mask so you dont fill the frame.

Due to the advent of digital there is a decrease in the quantity of 220 films available and the price of those that are exceeds the cost of 2 off 120 films and can only see a further decrease in availability / choice and hence a decrease in the value of the A16 and A32 backs.

For Information

Please note frame one is actually a C12 - On the A16S i have idicated the S on the side which shows it to be the superslide version and have provided close ups of the type of wear to look out for. Incidentally this back is still fully funtional as I have replaced the light traps and neoprene seal in the wind on and lubricated it, but if you would have to send it to a repairer it may be a different consideration.

Non Hasselblad compatables

A final note regarding Russian backs - yes they do fit but personally I would not use them as they are all the early pinhole 12 on or C12 type and if your film plane is as little as 0.25mm out so is your focus, but I can suggest the prisms to be a good buy.

Hope this helps - good luck with your purchase.

Lighting Tricks

Here are just a few ideas to think about when you furnish your home with vintage lighting.
To make a low room appear taller.......


ensure lots of light is thrown onto the ceiling;

use fittings that project vertical beams;

make sure pendant designs are low hanging.
To make a small space appear larger......


illuminate all four corners of a room;

use uplighters to bounce light onto the ceiling;

install recessed or track lighting;

maximise your natural light: hang mirrors opposite windows.
To give a large or tall room a cosier feel......


add more lamps: group several together in a cluster or scatter lots around singularly;

prevent light from a projecting onto the ceiling;

use red or orange toned bulbs in lamps.

If you've found this guide helpful, please tick "yes" below - thank you!

How To Tile A Bathroom

Bathroom Tiles With an almost unlimited choice of patterns, textures and colours to please even the most fastidious tastes, bathroom tiles are the obvious choice for lining your bathroom or shower area. Although some people consider leaving it to the professionals, most bathrooms can be tiled in a weekend, even if you have had no previous tiling experience.Before you begin, here are the essential tools you'll need for the job:Tile CutterTile SawGrout SpreaderSpirit LevelTile NibblersAdhesive SpreaderTile-Cutting JigHomemade Gauge StickPreparationBefore you begin, it is imperative that the walls are clean, sound and dry. The surface should be as flat as possible and therefore you will need to remove any wallpapering and coat any flaking paint with a stabilizing primer. Now would be a good time to make your very own gauge stick, which will help you plot the position of the tiles on the wall. Find a piece of softwood and lay several tiles next to it (adding spacers if the tiles are square edged or butting together those with lugs) and mark off the position of each tile along the stick.Setting Out The TilesThe size and shape of your bathroom ultimately decides on how you set out the walls. Mark the bottom of the lowest row of tiles and temporarily nail a thin guide batten to the wall, aligned with the mark. Use the spirit level to ensure that this is perfectly horizontal. Marking the centre of the wall, use the gauge stick to set out the rows of tiles on each side of it. If the border tiles measure less than half the width of a tile, reposition the rows sideways by half a tile. Use the spirit level to place a guide batten against the last vertical line and nail it to the wall. If you have to tile around an object such as a window, use that as your starting point so that the surrounding tiles are of equal size. Cut tiles should be placed at the back of the window reveal. Again, use a temporary guide batten above the window to position the row of tiles above it.Applying The AdhesiveIt's important to always use a waterproof tile adhesive for areas that will come into contact with water. Most tile adhesives are sold ready-mixed, although some will require you to add water yourself. Apply the adhesive to the wall so that it covers about 1 metre square.Using the toothed edge of the spreader, form horizontal ridges in the adhesive. Take the first tile and position it in the right angle formed by the setting out battens at the skirting level. If the tiles do not have lugs, place plastic spacers between them to ensure that there is enough space for the grouting.Using a damp sponge, wipe away any adhesive from the surface of the tiles. Tile along the batten until the first rows are complete, ensuring that each tile is perfectly horizontal. When you are complete, allow the tiles to set before removing the battens.Cutting The Border TilesOnce you have completed the main area, the border tiles will need to be cut to fit the gap between the adjacent walls. Placing the border tile face down and with one edge next to the wall, mark where it is to be cut taking into consideration normal spacing between the tiles. Use a felt tip pen to transfer the mark to the face of the tile. Take the tile cutter and holding it against a straightedge, score across the face in one firm stroke. Stretching a length of thin wire across a panel of chipboard, place the scored line over the wire and press down on both sides to snap the tile. Alternatively, you can use a purpose-made tile-cutting jig. Using a tile sander, smooth over the cut edges of the tile.Fitting Around AppliancesWhen fitting tiles around a pipe, it's best to try and set them out so that you can cut a semi circle from the edges of two adjacent tiles. If this is not possible, mark the centre of the pipe on the top and side edges of the tile and draw lines across from these points. Using a coin, or something slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe, draw around where the two lines cross. Make a cut straight through the centre of the circle and then use a tile saw to cut out the remaining circle. To fit a tile against a curved shape, it's best to use a piece of thin card and draw a template of the exact size of the tile. Cut small, evenly spaced slits along one edge of the tile and press them against a curve replicate the shape. Transfer the gradient of the curve on to the face of the tile and then cut using a tile saw.Grouting And SealingIt is essential to use waterproof grout for any bath or shower surrounds. Grout comes in a pre-mixed paste grey, white or brown paste, although it is also possible these days to source coloured grouts that will blend in with your choice of tiles. Allow the tile adhesive to harden for 24 hours before applying the grout using a rubber-bladed spreader, ensuring that are the joints are filled. Using a sponge, wipe the grout from the surface of the tiles before it sets and smooth the joints with a blunt-ended stick. When it has dried, use a dry cloth to polish the face of the tiles and leave for about a week before using.Sealing Bathroom FittingsYou should not use grout to seal the gap between the shower tray or bathtub and the wall, since it can crack and lose its waterproof seal. It's best to use a silicon sealant compound, which you can buy in cartridges. The sealants are again available in a choice of colours to match your choice of tile. Trim the end off the nozzle and press the tip into the joint at an angle of 45 degrees. When applying the sealant to bathtubs, it's best to stand in the bath* since the join will accommodate your body weight. When you have finished, smooth over any ripples with a wetted teaspoon handle.

PEEL OFFS

Do you think Peel Offs are Fussy? Wish you knew how to use them? Don't know what they are or where to start?Well here's a quick and easy guide to having fun with peel offs!

Peel Offs are stickers, it's that simple! They are intricately cut stickers made from a durable, flexible material. Simply peel off the sheet and apply to any smooth, clean surface, such as paper, acetate, glass, plastic, metal and ceramics.

Pandora Battery and Services! Why Pay?

There have been MANY people on eBay currently selling the
Pandora Battery or the Service for you to send your own battery to them and
they will program it and send it back. The fact of the matter is: Your getting
ripped off!

The truth is they are charging you most of the time for the software or the
service of doing it for you when you can do it at home for Free with the
"Pandora Battery" Software if which you can type in on Google and
will find the software in seconds!

The Pandora Battery software allows you to upgrade/downgrade and recover
bricked PSP's and if you have a bricked PSP, its your Misfortune their picking
on. So avoid being misled into buying something thats Free!

Please Thank Me at the Bottom by Clicking Yes if this Guide has Helped You!

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